Motorcycle dealerships. If you love motorcycles and can't wait to get riding, they're like an amusement park, birthday party and toy store all rolled into one. They're exciting, inviting places where you'll find your dream ride, get the best gear, make new friends, keep your bike in-tune and learn about your new passion.

Many dealerships are large, multi-brand shops with a professional staff trained to ensure you get what you want, when you want it. That means you'll probably be greeted by someone soon after you walk in. But don't worry: unlike auto dealerships, there won't be a school of slick dudes in bad neckties surrounding you as soon as you cross the parking lot. Instead, after you look around a bit, you'll be engaged in conversation about what you ride or what kind of riding you want to do.

He or she is there to sell a motorcycle, and they will try to move you through the sales process, trying to find out what you want and how you'll get it, and most importantly, how they can make you a new owner. Let them do their job, ask lots of questions, listen carefully, and relax: buying a motorcycle should be fun. If you feel pressure, relax. Just because they want to sell you a bike, doesn't mean you're obligated to buy.

Before you know it you'll be talking bikes with a new friend. According to an experienced sales manager: "The worst thing a motorcycle salesperson can do is to act like a salesperson." It's true, your salesperson may sell you a bike today, but you'll probably be riding with him or her soon, so the last thing they want to do is talk you into a bad deal.

That's because they know you'll be back soon. A good motorcycle shop is the town hall of the riding community. It's where you go to get the best gear. The parts manager knows what items work best for riders in your area, so they stock the appropriate riding apparel, plus all the parts and accessories to tailor your bike for local conditions. The service department isn't just convenient; they know how to keep your motorcycle running. After all, they work on your chosen brand all day long. Established dealerships often host community events and are a reliable place to meet like-minded enthusiasts, and they're also a great starting point for local group rides. These are your new friends; they'll show you the best places to ride and cool events to check out, and they'll want to ride there with you!

Print Page Back to Top

There's nothing quite like the thrill of buying a brand-new motorcycle, especially if it's your first. The bike itself is perfect – pristine paint, shiny chrome, sticky, unscuffed tires, etc. But best of all, the mileage is near zero. It's yours, not someone else's, a blank canvas for you to personalize and ride and in your own unique way. There's little to worry about, since mechanical issues can be taken care of by the manufacturer's warranty. All you need to do is keep it clean, schedule proper maintenance and ride it. It's a great thing.

Of course, a well-cared-for used bike can be two-wheeled nirvana as well, as used bikes are frequently less expensive to buy and insure than new ones. It all depends on your financial and emotional points of view. We use the words ‘well-cared-for' above because history and condition are such key parts of the used-bike picture.

There aren't many situations worse than buying a used motorcycle you thought was mechanically solid, only to find it has a long list of hidden problems. The money and time you spend on it can overwhelm any potential enjoyment, so it's smart to do some homework before you buy. This includes making sure the bike has a clear title and is inspected by a qualified technician before you hand over any cash. If you're buying from a private seller, the inspection (which should be a thorough in-shop evaluation, as well as an engine compression/leak-down check) is vital to ensure you're getting what you pay for. If you're buying from a reputable dealer, ask to see any work done to the bike prior to sale, and insist on a written, short-term warranty as a safety net, in case a major issue reveals itself two days after you ride it home.

Buy S.M.A.R.T.: Considering the incredibly low purchase prices of Kawasaki's S.M.A.R.T. rides, it is probably easier just to buy a new motorcycle, while enjoying the confidence of a factory warranty and complete knowledge of your bike's history from day-one.

Print Page Back to Top

Rider training is essential to keeping riders safe. It not only helps in understanding the basic operation of a motorcycle, more importantly it teaches traffic awareness —how to identify and avoid hazards, how to increase your visibility to other road users, and emergency maneuvers to help you avoid accidents.

In many states, the Motorcycle Safety Foundation (MSF) offers classes for new and re-entry riders. Classes can be found by searching the MSF's web site, or searching online. In some states, training is offered by law enforcement agencies. Most training organizations issue certificates upon successful completion, which can waive the DMV's test requirement.

Once basic training has been completed, riders can take advantage of a variety of advanced courses and professional riding instruction. The MSF offers the Experienced Rider Course, which gives more in-depth training on basic skills. Track schools are designed to teach safe high-speed techniques and help get optimum performance out of your motorcycle. Other specialized riding schools include professional race schools, trail and motocross riding, police and parade riding, etc.

Rider training do's and don'ts

• Do go to an institution certified by the MSF or your state's DMV
• Do get plenty of practice once you have completed the Basic Rider Course
• Do not attempt to learn by yourself

Print Page Back to Top

As with most worthwhile pursuits, motorcycle enthusiasts will absorb a wide variety of unique terms as they journey through their riding life. Motorcycling isn’t quite as “jargon” intensive as learning to sail, but there are still several terms that frequently cause misunderstandings in even the most experienced riders. To give S.M.A.R.T. participants a leg-up, Kawasaki has created this list of common motorcycling lingo:

Air Cooled: The simple method of shedding engine heat by radiating it directly from the engine’s surface into the air that is passing by. Air cooled engines are less effective at keeping their temperatures within an optimum range, compared to liquid cooled engines. Because of this fact, air cooled engines cannot be reliably tuned as precisely as liquid cooled engines. (also see: Liquid cooled)

Bagger: Baggers are stylized V-twin powered touring motorcycles, equipped with hard luggage (saddlebags) and a cut-down windscreen. Baggers offer a cool profile and great street presence, while also offering a reasonable amount of practicality and long-distance comfort. (also see: Touring bike)

Brake levers: Unlike a car, motorcycles actually offer two independent brake controls. One is a lever squeezed by the rider’s right fingers, which typically operates the front brakes only. The other is a lever operated by the rider’s right foot, typically controlling the rear brakes only. However the functions of these two levers are sometimes combined by the “linked brake” systems available on some motorcycles. (also see: Disc brakes, Drum brakes)

Center stand: A center stand is a bipod that’s hinged underneath the motorcycle and folds flat against the bottom of the bike when not in use. Designed to hold a motorcycle level with its rear tire raised slightly off the ground, center stands are typically more stable than side stands, but are heavier and slightly more difficult to use.

Chopper: Choppers are typically custom-built one-offs, or production bikes designed to look custom built. The original “chopper” term was used to denote any bike that had been stripped of all unnecessary equipment. However most riders now use the “chopper” term to describe bikes with extra-long forks and a severely raked-out front end. Choppers typically sacrifice much of their handling and dynamic capabilities in the pursuit of style.

Clutch: Controlled by a lever in front of the left grip, the clutch connects/disconnects the engine to/from the transmission and rear wheel.

Counter-steering: This is not the appropriate forum to teach advanced riding skills, so we will steer-clear of the specifics of execution. In a nutshell, counter-steering is the act of applying forward pressure to the inside handlebar (push right bar to go-right, push left bar to go left) when initiating a turn. It may seem counter-intuitive at first, but this pressing of the bars in the opposite way that you intend to turn is an effective way of steering a motorcycle at speeds above a walking pace.

Cruiser: Cruisers offer classic “retro” styling that pays homage to various periods from the 1910s through 1950s. Cruisers typically offer a “relaxed” riding position that places the rider’s feet farther forward, with the rider in a semi-reclined position. This is not ideal for handling or sustained high speeds, but works well around-town and at lower speeds.

Curb weight: The actual weight of a new vehicle, ready-to-use, including all fluids and gasses filled to capacity. (see also: Dry weight)

Disc brakes: The current preferred style of brakes. Disc brakes are primarily composed of a disc (aka: “rotor”) that is attached to and rotates with the wheel assembly, and a caliper that squeezes the rotating rotor and is attached to a non-rotating part like a motorcycle’s fork legs or swingarm. (see also: Drum brakes, Brake levers)

Drive: Something you do in a car. You do not “drive” a motorcycle, you “ride” it. However, the term “drive” is used in motorcycling to describe the transmission of power from the engine to the transmission (primary drive) and from the transmission to the rear wheel (final drive) Common final drive types include: Chain drive, Shaft drive and Belt drive.

Drum brakes: An older style of braking system that uses a rotating “drum” affixed to the wheel hub, enclosing a non-rotating internal friction pad (aka: “shoe”) which can be pivoted against the inner surface of the drum to slow it down. Though generally reliable, drum brake systems are typically less powerful, less consistent, less precise and require higher maintenance than disc brake systems. (see also: Disc brakes, Brake levers)

Dry weight: The theoretical combined weight of all the components used on a new vehicle. This weight does not include any gasses, fluids, adhesives, battery electrolyte, etc. In the real world, the actual weight of any assembled, ready-to-use vehicle will be higher than its claimed “dry weight”. (see also: Curb weight)

Dual-purpose (aka Dual Sport): Sometimes mistakenly referred to as “enduro” bikes, dual purpose motorcycles are designed to work in the dirt and on the street. Dual purpose bikes can look a lot like dirt bikes, but are street legal and equipped with lights, turn signals, a speedometer and a license plate.

Forks: The tubular, telescoping assemblies that connect the front axle/wheel to the motorcycle and contain the front suspension.

Hardtail: (aka: rigid) Any motorcycle that does not have a rear suspension. Some motorcycles feature hardtail styling which makes them look like they don’t have a rear suspension, because the shock, linkage, and all pivot points are tucked-away or hidden behind bolt-on covers.

Liquid cooled: (aka: water cooled) Liquid cooling systems pump coolant or lubricating oil through heat dissipating passages in the engine and then through an external radiator to allow precise regulation of operating temperature. The increased capacity of the fluid medium to carry-away engine heat, allows liquid cooled engines to be consistently tuned to a higher level than comparable air cooled engines. Liquid cooled engines also tend to radiate less heat onto the rider and produce less mechanical noise than air cooled engines, thanks to the insulating properties of their coolant passages.

Motorcycle: A motorized two-wheel vehicle that is straddled by its rider. Not a trike, spyder, kart, car or any other device that is incapable of leaning-into corners.

Powerband: Probably the most abused and misunderstood term in motorcycling. An engine’s “powerband” is not a physical part. It is merely a description of the rpm range in which the engine operates near peak output. For most engines, this range lies somewhere between 60 - 90% of maximum rpm. Typically, at fairly low rpm the engine isn’t making much power, however, as a rider accelerates and the engine’s revs climb, the power output will swell. It is this swell in power that is commonly referred to as the “powerband.” This swell in output can range from very mild to quite pronounced, depending on an engine’s state of tune.

Streetbike: Any and all motorcycles designed and licensed for use on paved public roads. All of the following categories are examples of “streetbikes”: Standards, Streetfighters, Sport Tourers, Sportbikes, Supersports, Superbikes, Cruisers, Baggers, Choppers, and Tourers.

Sportbike: Any street motorcycle that places an emphasis on performance and aerodynamics. Sportbikes cover a wide range, from entry-level bikes with modern looks and decent handling, through the latest superbikes designed for racetrack use. Anything with “Ninja®” in its name qualifies as a “sportbike” (see also: Superbike/Supersport)

Superbike/Supersport: The sharp end of the sportbike realm, these are the cutting-edge of motorcycle performance. Typically styled to replicate race bikes, the Superbike and Supersport categories feature the latest, lightest and strongest technologies developed on the racetrack. They offer the highest power-to-weight ratios and sharpest handling of any motorcycle type, but their extreme “race” riding positions and uncompromising track performance often make them uncomfortable for commuting, freeway trips or other situations that involve long periods of riding in a straight line. Though all “Ninja” models are sportbikes, only the Ninja ZX™-6R and Ninja ZX-10R can be considered as Supersport or Superbikes.

Standard: A traditionally shaped motorcycle that is not covered by full bodywork and has a neutral/upright seating position. Some of the more relaxed “sportbikes” and some sportier “cruisers” could actually fit into the “standard” category. Most “standard” bikes are quite practical and they often make excellent commuters. Standards also tend to handle better than “cruisers” and tend to be more comfortable than pure “sportbikes.”

Shift lever: Operated by the rider's left foot, the shifter moves in a vertical plane and selects gears sequentially, up-or-down, one gear at a time. A typical motorcycle shift pattern looks like this: Accelerating: 1-N-2-3-4-5-6 (top) Decelerating: 6-5-4-3-2-N-1.

Side stand: (aka: kickstand) The lever or hinged-rod that supports a motorcycle when it's parked. Side stands are typically mounted on a pivot near the rider’s left foot and fold-up to lie flush with the motorcycle when not in use. It is important to be aware of the firmness of the ground, when parking a motorcycle on its side stand, lest the stand sink into soft ground and topple the motorcycle. The side stand is for holding the motorcycle upright without a rider, and the rider should not sit on the motorcycle when the side stand is engaged.
Print Page Back to Top

It's true: Motorcycling is so much fun it can – and probably will – change your life. But like most things in life, there is a degree of risk involved, which is why proper riding gear is an absolute must. Choosing the right protective gear can seem confusing, as there are a million products screaming for your attention at the dealer, in magazine ads and on the internet. But fear not. Follow along here and we'll lay out a simple formula for outfitting yourself with gear that'll not only provide some protection if you happen to fall off, but make your entire motorcycling experience much more satisfying.

We'll start at the top – protecting your head. There is much debate about helmets these days, but the irrefutable truth is that you're much more likely to survive a fall – even a bad one – if you're wearing a proper helmet. And by ‘proper' we mean a lid that passes one of the world's recognized testing standards: Our own U.S. Department of Transportation's (DOT) standard, the European ECE standard, or the SNELL foundation standard. There are hundreds of examples of acceptable helmets available these days, so pick the one with the shape, comfort, features and price that suits you best. A full-face helmet is the safest bet due to the extra protection it offers your face, but an open-face helmet (worn with quality eye protection) is still far better than no helmet at all.

Next comes upper- and lower-torso protection. First, the best way to protect your arms, chest, back and internal organs is with an armored jacket of either textile or leather construction. Leather (not fashion-weight!) is well known for its superb abrasion protection, but the latest textile/Cordura jackets (and pants) are nearly as good, and are plenty protective for street riding. Look for armor (foam-backed plastic armor is best) in the following areas: Shoulders, elbows/forearms and along the spine. The story is the same (textile or leather) with regard to riding pants. Look for armor in the knees and some sort of extra padding or layered leather along the hips. Waterproofing and/or venting are nice features, but they add cost. If you insist on wearing jeans (not the best idea), be sure they're thick and relatively new; pre-washed or worn denim comes apart easily under strain, and can leave you with a bad dose of road-rash. For commuters, a one-piece textile riding suit such as the Aerostich Roadcrafter is a great alternative to jacket/pant separates. The Roadcrafter, for instance, can be worn directly over business clothes and offers a single full-length zipper for easy in-and-out, plus venting and armor in all the right places, and a high level of abrasion and injury protection.

Boots are an area where both leather and textiles work equally well, especially when protective padding is involved. The key to well-protected feet is a sturdy construction and, most importantly, a style that completely covers the ankle and lower shin.

Hand protection is the final key piece of the riding-gear puzzle, which is why we recommend high-quality leather gloves with protective, abrasion-resistant padding on the backs of fingers and along the heel (or bottom) of the palm. Gauntlet-style gloves provide extra protection for the wrist and forearm, and their design also helps keep the glove on the rider's hand in a tumble. Textile gloves aren't as good here, as they don't offer the same level of abrasion protection. However, they are superior to leather in extremely wet or cold conditions.

Finally, some extras to make your ride as enjoyable, safe and comfortable as possible. First, consider wearing foam earplugs. They not only protect your hearing from the corrosive effects of wind noise out on the road, they quiet things just enough to keep comfort levels high while still allowing you to clearly hear sirens and horns. Also consider wearing a bandana or stretchy balaclava-type piece around your neck. It'll keep wind and/or cold air off your neck, and you can also pull it up around your mouth and lower face for additional comfort and warmth.

Now that you know the Good Stuff, happy hunting!
Print Page Back to Top

How to buy the motorcycle of your dreams

Times are tough. Jobs are disappearing, consumer confidence is lagging, and money seems harder and harder to borrow. Which is why Kawasaki Motors Corp., U.S.A. and its independent dealers across America have made financing a new motorcycle a top priority, with special programs to make getting a motorcycle loan easier than ever.

Most buyers are just seven steps from owning a new Kawasaki motorcycle:

1. Determine a monthly budget for payments and insurance
2. Bring your ID, two recent pay stubs, down payment and/or trade-in to a Kawasaki dealer
3. Choose your S.M.A.R.T. vehicle
4. Negotiate your best price
5. Apply for financing
6. Sign on the dotted line
7. Let the good times roll.™

At Kawasaki, a perfect credit score isn't required to obtain financing on a new motorcycle. Dealerships now have multiple options to assist buyers who wouldn't otherwise qualify for a loan.

Not only is financing available for a wide range of credit scores, but it's also plenty affordable. Even those with less than perfect scores may find affordable interest rates from Kawasaki's affiliated lenders.

A low cost loan from one of Kawasaki's affiliated lenders might be the ideal opportunity to put a brand-new S.M.A.R.T. bike in your garage!

These finance options go a long way toward removing the obstacles faced by today's buyers.

Kawasaki dealers have yet another strong tool in their arsenal – the fantastic bang for the buck that's built into Kawasaki's entire S.M.A.R.T. product line. From the $4,299 Ninja® 250R , to the $9,249 Vulcan® 900 Classic LT ; there are 10 different brand-new, warranty-covered S.M.A.R.T. models with MSRPs well-under $10,000. And with Kawasaki's special programs and promotions, there's never been an easier, more-affordable time to buy a new motorcycle. What if you followed the first five steps above in good faith, but your dealer was still unable to provide financing? Don't give up. You still have options, as other lenders are eager to help. Even if your credit application was turned down, a couple of hours searching for lenders on the internet will often result in a workable solution… and another happy new Kawasaki owner!

     Effective tactics for securing a new vehicle loan, even if your first attempt wasn't approved:

1. Ask a family member to co-sign your loan application.
2. Search the internet for lenders specializing in difficult credit. You'd be amazed at how many options there are for alternative financing.
3. Search the internet for eligible credit unions. Many credit unions have money to lend and relaxed loan guidelines for members.
4. Search the internet for quick tips on boosting your personal credit score. There are numerous strategies to help, like: You can often boost your credit rating by several points just by paying a maxed-out credit card balance down by one hundred dollars.
5. Don't forget the value of a trade-in! If you didn't mention a trade-in vehicle during your first dealer visit, take your old ride to the dealer and let them know you want to add it to the deal, it may drastically reduce the financed amount on your new Kawasaki.
6. Save some additional cash for a month or two. A larger down payment can make all the difference.

Bottom line: If you have a steady income, there really isn't anything standing between you and a new Kawasaki motorcycle. All you need to do is pick a ride and go get it!

Print Page Back to Top

Common misconceptions surround the motorcycling world. Whether they come from books, magazines and TV, or from friends and family, some myths stubbornly persist in the minds of the public. This list is by no means exhaustive, but we'll cover some of the big ones:

1. Nice people don't ride
   Moms ride, kids ride, grandparents ride, men ride, women ride. Motorcycles have never been more accessible and acceptable for all walks of life.
   
   
2. Women don't ride
   The statistics are clear: Today, women make up over 12 percent of motorcycle owners, and almost 25 percent of all active riders. Women riders participate in rallies and compete with the men in some professional races. Many companies produce clothing that's tailored to the needs of women motorcyclists. There are also numerous events and clubs for women riders.
   
   
3. I'm too old to ride
   While college-age individuals represent a significant portion of riders, they are actually outnumbered by those over the age of 50. It is quite common for riders to decide they'll never stop riding, many of them continuing to ride into their 80s.
   
   
4. I am too small/too big
   Just like people, motorcycles come in all sizes. Fortunately, complete measurements and information are available online for every make and model, so you can easily find a bike that will fit you perfectly.
   
   
5. Learning to ride is hard
   Rider training, especially the Motorcycle Safety Foundation's Basic Rider Course, is designed to ease you into riding. Instructors understand that new riders are often intimidated, and offer constructive feedback in a highly supportive environment.
   
   
6. Dealers are shady
   Motorcycle dealers, from the smallest one-brand shops the largest multi-line superstores, frequently train their staffs to listen to a customer's needs, then help them purchase an appropriate bike.
   
   
7. If I buy a small motorcycle, I'll outgrow it too quickly
   Like new bikes, new riders often need a “break-in” period to reach their maximum potential. So it's doubly important to choose a sensible motorcycle to fit the new rider. The S.M.A.R.T. rides on this site offer a great deal of fun, not just for brand-new riders, but also a few months or even years down the road, when experience will let the rider capitalize on the bike's full potential. Remember, it's not just the size of a motorcycle's engine, but also the ability of its rider, that ultimately determines the capabilities, fun factor, and usefulness of a machine.

Print Page Back to Top

Aside from your motorcycle, what will be your biggest expense? It probably won't be tires, gas or accessories. It'll be insurance, one of those things that you pay for but will probably —hopefully— never use. And everybody, by law (in most states), has to have it. But you probably have lots of questions: how do I get the best deal? What kind of insurance do I need? Can't I just go without? Why does it cost so much?

If you get sick, you see a doctor. If you need your bike fixed, you need a mechanic. If you want to know about motorcycle insurance, you talk to an insurance agent. Many motorcycle dealerships have a licensed insurance agent on the premises, but you can find good insurance brokers just about anywhere. Ask around or read your local motorcycling publications to find a trusted agent who knows about bikes. He or she will be able to answer your questions, get the best rates, and most importantly, match you up with exactly the insurance products you need, while saving you time and money. Most agents work long hours—even weekends—for your convenience, and are ready to fax or email all the documents, so you can start riding today!

There are many different types of insurance¹. Most types can be purchased separately, or rolled into one master policy —just like your car insurance. Here are tips and terms covering the policy types you should be familiar with before you start shopping for a motorcycle:

• Be sure to research your insurance premiums (cost of the policy) and shop around, before you sign the contract to purchase a bike. Depending on what model of bike you buy, your age, where you live, and a dozen other factors, your rates can vary by thousands of dollars per year.
  
  
• Be flexible: insuring the hottest sportbike may not make sense financially right now, but you may find a motorcycle that still has all the performance and capabilities that you need with a much lower premium. Get riding on that bike, keep your driving record clean, and as you rack up miles —and experience— your rates will improve, and soon you'll be on the bike of your dreams.
  
  
• COMPREHENSIVE: Do you want your motorcycle replaced if it's stolen? Then you may need Comprehensive insurance. This may replace or repair your ride if it's stolen, vandalized or carried away by a tornado.
• COLLISION: Do you want it fixed or replaced if you go down? You need Collision insurance. If you're the responsible party in an accident, the insurance company will pay the repair bills, or, if the repair exceeds the bike's value, it may buy you a replacement.
• LIABILITY: Do you just want to be in compliance with the law? Then you only need Liability insurance. But how much coverage should you get? Most states only require $15,000, but how much are you worth? Get enough coverage to protect everything you own in case you become the defendant. Don't become someone else's winning lottery ticket!
• UINSURED MOTORIST: Do you want to be protected from the irresponsibility of others? Uninsured Motorist coverage will compensate you for medical bills, lost wages and even the pain and suffering you may...suffer if an at-fault uninsured motorist causes a crash.
• GAP: Did you put zero down on a loan and load up on accessories and other add-ons? Gap insurance will cover the difference between the total loan pay-off amount and the current market value of your motorcycle.

¹ Kawasaki does not make specific recommendations on insurance coverage. All insurance coverage decisions are the sole responsibility of the purchaser, subject to lender requirements and state motor vehicle laws. Consult a qualified insurance professional. Read your policy for coverage and exclusions.

Print Page Back to Top

Questions to Ask your Dealer

1. May I speak to the service manager? (before going to the sales department) A good service manager can almost always recommend a good salesperson.
   
   
2. Are there currently any incentives or special programs available for this bike?
   
   
3. Do you offer test rides?
   
   


4. If considering a new bike: Will I be getting one out of the crate? Is it possible for me to watch the pre-delivery service for my bike? If considering a pre-owned bike: May I see a copy of the re-conditioning service order?
   
   
5. Does the parts department stock the proper oil filter, brake, clutch and shift levers for this model?
   
   
6. Do you offer extended warranty contracts beyond the manufacturer's warranty? Can I take a copy of the extended warranty terms with me so I can read all of the fine print before I decide?
   
   
7. Do you offer pre-paid maintenance contracts, so my regular scheduled maintenance can be done at no additional cost?
   
   
8. Does the store have training or track events I can attend? How about bike nights, or new riders' groups?
   
   
9. Do you offer financing and full-coverage insurance?

Print Page Back to Top