Motorcycling is so much fun, it can – and probably will – change your life.
One of the coolest things about riding is that the motorcycle industry offers hundreds of different models, plus thousands of apparel and accessory options (resulting in millions of unique combinations) to please riders of all sizes, tastes and experience levels. However, new riders and those returning to the sport after a couple years away, can be overwhelmed by the vast array of choices. That is why Kawasaki created the S
ransportation (S.M.A.R.T.) project.
Smart choices in the beginning can go a long way toward making your entire motorcycling life more fun and satisfying. To help make your choices easier, the S.M.A.R.T. project assists new and re-entry riders with taking the first steps into the motorcycling lifestyle and then identifying the style and model of bike they desire.
You will find several topics to help get your motorcycling life started in a smart fashion, listed below. You can also venture to other smart topics, in the tabs located along the top of this frame. Find My Bike
is a selection tool for choosing which S.M.A.R.T. Kawasaki models are a good match for your wants and needs. S.M.A.R.T. Rides
is a listing of all S.M.A.R.T. models, and Bonus Tracks
is a section to help continue your journey once you’ve bought a motorcycle.
Motorcycle dealerships. If you love motorcycles and can't wait to get riding, they're
like an amusement park, birthday party and toy store all rolled into one. They're
exciting, inviting places where you'll find your dream ride, get the best gear,
make new friends, keep your bike in-tune and learn about your new passion.
Many dealerships are large, multi-brand shops with a professional staff trained
to ensure you get what you want, when you want it. That means you'll probably be
greeted by someone soon after you walk in. But don't worry: unlike auto dealerships,
be a school of slick dudes in bad neckties surrounding you
as soon as you cross the parking lot. Instead, after you look around a bit, you'll
be engaged in conversation about what you ride or what kind of riding you want to
He or she is
there to sell a motorcycle, and they will try to move you
through the sales process, trying to find out what you want and how you'll get it,
and most importantly, how they can make you a new owner. Let them do their job,
ask lots of questions, listen carefully, and relax
: buying a motorcycle
should be fun. If you feel pressure, relax
. Just because they want to sell
you a bike, doesn't mean you're obligated to buy.
Before you know it you'll be talking bikes with a new friend. According to an experienced
sales manager: "The worst thing a motorcycle salesperson can do is to act
like a salesperson." It's true, your salesperson may sell you a bike today,
but you'll probably be riding with him or her soon, so the last thing they want
to do is talk you into a bad deal.
That's because they know you'll be back soon. A good motorcycle shop is the town
hall of the riding community. It's where you go to get the best gear. The parts
manager knows what items work best for riders in your area, so they stock the appropriate
riding apparel, plus all the parts and accessories to tailor your bike for local
conditions. The service department isn't just convenient; they know how to
keep your motorcycle running. After all, they work on your chosen brand all
day long. Established dealerships often host community events and are a reliable
place to meet like-minded enthusiasts, and they're also a great starting point for
local group rides. These are your new friends; they'll show you the best places
to ride and cool events to check out, and they'll want to ride there with
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There's nothing quite like the thrill of buying a brand-new motorcycle, especially
if it's your first. The bike itself is perfect – pristine paint, shiny chrome, sticky,
unscuffed tires, etc. But best of all, the mileage is near zero. It's yours
not someone else's, a blank canvas for you to personalize and ride and in your own
unique way. There's little to worry about, since mechanical issues can be taken
care of by the manufacturer's warranty. All you need to do is keep it clean, schedule
proper maintenance and ride it
. It's a great thing.
Of course, a well-cared-for used bike can be two-wheeled nirvana as well, as used
bikes are frequently less expensive to buy and insure than new ones. It all depends
on your financial and emotional points of view. We use the words ‘well-cared-for'
above because history and condition are such key parts of the used-bike picture.
There aren't many situations worse than buying a used motorcycle you thought
was mechanically solid, only to find it has a long list of hidden problems. The
money and time you spend on it can overwhelm any potential enjoyment, so it's smart
to do some homework before
you buy. This includes making sure the bike
has a clear title and is inspected by a qualified technician before
hand over any cash. If you're buying from a private seller, the inspection (which
should be a thorough in-shop evaluation, as well as an engine compression/leak-down
check) is vital to ensure you're getting what you pay for. If you're buying from
a reputable dealer, ask to see any work done to the bike prior to sale, and insist
on a written, short-term warranty as a safety net, in case a major issue reveals
itself two days after you ride it home.
Considering the incredibly low purchase prices
of Kawasaki's S.M.A.R.T. rides, it is probably easier just to buy a new motorcycle,
while enjoying the confidence of a factory warranty and complete knowledge of your
bike's history from day-one.
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Rider training is essential to keeping riders safe. It not only helps in understanding
the basic operation of a motorcycle, more importantly it teaches traffic awareness
—how to identify and avoid hazards, how to increase your visibility to other
road users, and emergency maneuvers to help you avoid accidents.
In many states, the Motorcycle
(MSF) offers classes
for new and re-entry riders. Classes can be found by searching the MSF's web site,
or searching online. In some states, training is offered by law enforcement agencies.
Most training organizations issue certificates upon successful completion, which
can waive the DMV's test requirement.
Once basic training has been completed, riders can take advantage of a variety of
advanced courses and professional riding instruction. The MSF offers the Experienced
Rider Course, which gives more in-depth training on basic skills. Track schools
are designed to teach safe high-speed techniques and help get optimum performance
out of your motorcycle. Other specialized riding schools include professional race
schools, trail and motocross riding, police and parade riding, etc.
Rider training do's and don'ts
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- Do go to an institution certified by the MSF or your state's DMV
- Do get plenty of practice once you have completed the Basic Rider Course
- Do not attempt to learn by yourself
As with most worthwhile pursuits, motorcycle enthusiasts will absorb a wide variety of unique
terms as they journey through their riding life. Motorcycling isn’t quite as “jargon”
intensive as learning to sail, but there are still several terms that frequently
cause misunderstandings in even the most experienced riders. To give S.M.A.R.T.
participants a leg-up, Kawasaki has created this list of common motorcycling lingo:
The simple method of shedding engine heat by radiating
it directly from the engine’s surface into the air that is passing by. Air cooled
engines are less effective at keeping their temperatures within an optimum range,
compared to liquid cooled engines. Because of this fact, air cooled engines cannot
be reliably tuned as precisely as liquid cooled engines. (also see: Liquid cooled)
Baggers are stylized V-twin powered touring motorcycles,
equipped with hard luggage (saddlebags) and a cut-down windscreen. Baggers offer
a cool profile and great street presence, while also offering a reasonable amount
of practicality and long-distance comfort. (also see: Touring bike)
Unlike a car, motorcycles actually offer two independent
brake controls. One is a lever squeezed by the rider’s right fingers, which typically
operates the front brakes only. The other is a lever operated by the rider’s right
foot, typically controlling the rear brakes only. However the functions of these
two levers are sometimes combined by the “linked brake” systems available on some
motorcycles. (also see: Disc brakes, Drum brakes)
A center stand is a bipod that’s hinged underneath
the motorcycle and folds flat against the bottom of the bike when not in use. Designed
to hold a motorcycle level with its rear tire raised slightly off the ground, center
stands are typically more stable than side stands, but are heavier and slightly
more difficult to use.
Choppers are typically custom-built one-offs, or production
bikes designed to look custom built. The original “chopper” term was used to denote
any bike that had been stripped of all unnecessary equipment. However most riders
now use the “chopper” term to describe bikes with extra-long forks and a severely
raked-out front end. Choppers typically sacrifice much of their handling and dynamic
capabilities in the pursuit of style.
Controlled by a lever in front of the left grip, the clutch
connects/disconnects the engine to/from the transmission and rear wheel.
This is not the appropriate forum to teach advanced
riding skills, so we will steer-clear of the specifics of execution. In a nutshell,
counter-steering is the act of applying forward pressure to the inside handlebar
(push right bar to go-right, push left bar to go left) when initiating a turn. It
may seem counter-intuitive at first, but this pressing of the bars in the opposite
way that you intend to turn is an effective way of steering a motorcycle
at speeds above a walking pace.
Cruisers offer classic “retro” styling that pays homage
to various periods from the 1910s through 1950s. Cruisers typically offer a “relaxed”
riding position that places the rider’s feet farther forward, with the rider in
a semi-reclined position. This is not ideal for handling or sustained high speeds,
but works well around-town and at lower speeds.
The actual weight of a new vehicle, ready-to-use,
including all fluids and gasses filled to capacity. (see also: Dry weight)
The current preferred style of brakes. Disc brakes
are primarily composed of a disc (aka: “rotor”) that is attached to and rotates
with the wheel assembly, and a caliper that squeezes the rotating rotor and is attached
to a non-rotating part like a motorcycle’s fork legs or swingarm. (see also: Drum
brakes, Brake levers)
Something you do in a car. You do not “drive” a motorcycle,
you “ride” it. However, the term “drive” is
used in motorcycling to describe
the transmission of power from the engine to the transmission (primary drive) and
from the transmission to the rear wheel (final drive) Common final drive types include:
Chain drive, Shaft drive and Belt drive.
An older style of braking system that uses a rotating
“drum” affixed to the wheel hub, enclosing a non-rotating internal friction pad
(aka: “shoe”) which can be pivoted against the inner surface of the drum to slow
it down. Though generally reliable, drum brake systems are typically less powerful,
less consistent, less precise and require higher maintenance than disc brake systems.
(see also: Disc brakes, Brake levers)
The theoretical combined weight of all the components
used on a new vehicle. This weight does not include any gasses, fluids, adhesives,
battery electrolyte, etc. In the real world, the actual weight of any assembled,
ready-to-use vehicle will be higher than its claimed “dry weight”. (see also: Curb
Dual-purpose (aka Dual Sport):
Sometimes mistakenly referred to
as “enduro” bikes, dual purpose motorcycles are designed to work in the dirt and on the street. Dual purpose bikes can look a lot like dirt bikes, but are
street legal and equipped with lights, turn signals, a speedometer and a license
The tubular, telescoping assemblies that connect the front
axle/wheel to the motorcycle and contain the front suspension.
(aka: rigid) Any motorcycle that does not have a rear
suspension. Some motorcycles feature hardtail styling
which makes them
look like they don’t have a rear suspension, because the shock, linkage, and all
pivot points are tucked-away or hidden behind bolt-on covers.
(aka: water cooled) Liquid cooling systems pump
coolant or lubricating oil through heat dissipating passages in the engine and then
through an external radiator to allow precise regulation of operating temperature.
The increased capacity of the fluid medium to carry-away engine heat, allows liquid
cooled engines to be consistently tuned to a higher level than comparable air cooled
engines. Liquid cooled engines also tend to radiate less heat onto the rider and
produce less mechanical noise than air cooled engines, thanks to the insulating
properties of their coolant passages.
A motorized two-wheel vehicle that is straddled by
its rider. Not
a trike, spyder, kart, car or any other device that is incapable
of leaning-into corners.
Probably the most abused and misunderstood term in motorcycling.
An engine’s “powerband” is not
a physical part. It is merely a description
of the rpm range in which the engine operates near peak output. For most engines,
this range lies somewhere between 60 - 90% of maximum rpm. Typically, at fairly
low rpm the engine isn’t making much power, however, as a rider accelerates and
the engine’s revs climb, the power output will swell. It is this swell in power
that is commonly referred to as the “powerband.” This swell in output can range
from very mild to quite pronounced, depending on an engine’s state of tune.
Any and all motorcycles designed and licensed for use
on paved public roads. All of the following categories are examples of “streetbikes”:
Standards, Streetfighters, Sport Tourers, Sportbikes, Supersports, Superbikes, Cruisers,
Baggers, Choppers, and Tourers.
Any street motorcycle that places an emphasis on performance
and aerodynamics. Sportbikes cover a wide range, from entry-level bikes with modern
looks and decent handling, through the latest superbikes designed for racetrack
use. Anything with “Ninja®” in its name qualifies as a “sportbike” (see also:
The sharp end of the sportbike realm, these
are the cutting-edge of motorcycle performance. Typically styled to replicate race
bikes, the Superbike and Supersport categories feature the latest, lightest and
strongest technologies developed on the racetrack. They offer the highest power-to-weight
ratios and sharpest handling of any motorcycle type, but their extreme “race” riding
positions and uncompromising track performance often make them uncomfortable for
commuting, freeway trips or other situations that involve long periods of riding
in a straight line. Though all
“Ninja” models are sportbikes, only the
Ninja ZX™-6R and Ninja ZX-10R can be considered as Supersport or Superbikes.
A traditionally shaped motorcycle that is not covered
by full bodywork and has a neutral/upright seating position. Some of the more relaxed
“sportbikes” and some sportier “cruisers” could actually fit into the “standard”
category. Most “standard” bikes are quite practical and they often make excellent
commuters. Standards also tend to handle better than “cruisers” and tend to be more
comfortable than pure “sportbikes.”
Operated by the rider's left foot, the shifter moves
in a vertical plane and selects gears sequentially, up-or-down, one gear at a time.
A typical motorcycle shift pattern looks like this: Accelerating: 1-N-2-3-4-5-6
(top) Decelerating: 6-5-4-3-2-N-1.
(aka: kickstand) The lever or hinged-rod that supports
a motorcycle when it's parked. Side stands are typically mounted on a pivot near
the rider’s left foot and fold-up to lie flush with the motorcycle when not in use.
It is important to be aware of the firmness of the ground, when parking a motorcycle
on its side stand, lest the stand sink into soft ground and topple the motorcycle.
The side stand is for holding the motorcycle upright without a rider, and the rider should not sit on the motorcycle when the side stand is engaged.
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It's true: Motorcycling is so much fun it can – and probably will – change your life. But like
most things in life, there is a degree of risk involved, which is why proper riding
gear is an absolute must
. Choosing the right protective gear can seem confusing,
as there are a million products screaming for your attention at the dealer, in magazine
ads and on the internet. But fear not. Follow along here and we'll lay out a simple
formula for outfitting yourself with gear that'll not only provide some protection if you happen to fall off, but make your entire motorcycling experience much more satisfying.
We'll start at the top – protecting your head. There is much debate about helmets
these days, but the irrefutable truth is that you're much more likely to survive
a fall – even a bad one – if you're wearing a proper helmet. And by ‘proper' we
mean a lid that passes one of the world's recognized testing standards: Our own
U.S. Department of Transportation's (DOT) standard, the European ECE standard, or
the SNELL foundation standard. There are hundreds of examples of acceptable helmets
available these days, so pick the one with the shape, comfort, features and price
that suits you best. A full-face helmet is the safest bet due to the extra protection
it offers your face, but an open-face helmet (worn with quality eye protection)
is still far better than no helmet at all.
Next comes upper- and lower-torso protection. First, the best way to protect your
arms, chest, back and internal organs is with an armored jacket of either textile
or leather construction. Leather (not fashion-weight!) is well known for its superb
abrasion protection, but the latest textile/Cordura jackets (and pants) are nearly
as good, and are plenty protective for street riding. Look for armor (foam-backed
plastic armor is best) in the following areas: Shoulders, elbows/forearms and along
the spine. The story is the same (textile or leather) with regard to riding pants.
Look for armor in the knees and some sort of extra padding or layered leather along
the hips. Waterproofing and/or venting are nice features, but they add cost. If
you insist on wearing jeans (not the best idea), be sure they're thick and relatively
new; pre-washed or worn denim comes apart easily under strain, and can leave you
with a bad dose of road-rash. For commuters, a one-piece textile riding suit such
as the Aerostich Roadcrafter is a great alternative to jacket/pant separates. The
Roadcrafter, for instance, can be worn directly over business clothes and offers
a single full-length zipper for easy in-and-out, plus venting and armor in all the
right places, and a high level of abrasion and injury protection.
Boots are an area where both leather and textiles work equally well, especially
when protective padding is involved. The key to well-protected feet is a sturdy
construction and, most importantly, a style that completely covers the ankle and
Hand protection is the final key piece of the riding-gear puzzle, which is why we
recommend high-quality leather gloves with protective, abrasion-resistant padding
on the backs of fingers and along the heel (or bottom) of the palm. Gauntlet-style
gloves provide extra protection for the wrist and forearm, and their design also
helps keep the glove on the rider's hand in a tumble. Textile gloves aren't as good
here, as they don't offer the same level of abrasion protection. However, they are
superior to leather in extremely wet or cold conditions.
Finally, some extras to make your ride as enjoyable, safe and comfortable as possible.
First, consider wearing foam earplugs. They not only protect your hearing from the
corrosive effects of wind noise out on the road, they quiet things just enough to
keep comfort levels high while still allowing you to clearly hear sirens and horns.
Also consider wearing a bandana or stretchy balaclava-type piece around your neck.
It'll keep wind and/or cold air off your neck, and you can also pull it up around
your mouth and lower face for additional comfort and warmth.
Now that you know the Good Stuff, happy hunting!
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How to buy the motorcycle of your dreams
Times are tough. Jobs are disappearing, consumer confidence is lagging, and money
seems harder and harder to borrow. Which is why Kawasaki Motors Corp., U.S.A. and
its independent dealers across America have made financing a new motorcycle a top
priority, with special programs to make getting a motorcycle loan easier than ever.
Most buyers are just seven steps from owning a new Kawasaki motorcycle:
- Determine a monthly budget for payments and insurance
- Bring your ID, two recent pay stubs, down payment and/or trade-in to a Kawasaki
- Choose your S.M.A.R.T. vehicle
- Negotiate your best price
- Apply for financing
- Sign on the dotted line
- Let the good times roll.™
At Kawasaki, a perfect credit score isn't required to obtain financing on a new
motorcycle. Dealerships now have multiple options to assist buyers who wouldn't
otherwise qualify for a loan.
Not only is financing available for a wide range of credit scores, but it's also
plenty affordable. Even those with less than perfect scores may find affordable
interest rates from Kawasaki's affiliated lenders.
A low cost loan from one of Kawasaki's affiliated lenders might be the ideal opportunity
to put a brand-new S.M.A.R.T. bike in your garage!
These finance options go a long way toward removing the obstacles faced by today's
Kawasaki dealers have yet another strong tool in their arsenal – the fantastic
bang for the buck that's built into Kawasaki's entire S.M.A.R.T. product line. From
the $4,299 Ninja® 250R
, to the $9,249 Vulcan® 900 Classic LT
; there are 10 different
brand-new, warranty-covered S.M.A.R.T. models with MSRPs well-under $10,000. And
with Kawasaki's special programs and promotions, there's never been an easier, more-affordable
time to buy a new motorcycle. What if you followed the first five steps above in
good faith, but your dealer was still unable to provide financing? Don't give up.
You still have options, as other lenders are eager to help. Even if your credit
application was turned down, a couple of hours searching for lenders on the internet
will often result in a workable solution… and another happy new Kawasaki owner!
Effective tactics for securing a new vehicle loan,
even if your first attempt wasn't approved:
- Ask a family member to co-sign your loan application.
- Search the internet for lenders specializing in difficult credit. You'd be amazed
at how many options there are for alternative financing.
- Search the internet for eligible credit unions. Many credit unions have money to
lend and relaxed loan guidelines for members.
- Search the internet for quick tips on boosting your personal credit score. There
are numerous strategies to help, like: You can often boost your credit rating by
several points just by paying a maxed-out credit card balance down by one hundred
- Don't forget the value of a trade-in! If you didn't mention a trade-in vehicle during
your first dealer visit, take your old ride to the dealer and let them know you
want to add it to the deal, it may drastically reduce the financed amount on your
- Save some additional cash for a month or two. A larger down payment can make all
If you have a steady income, there really isn't anything
standing between you and a new Kawasaki motorcycle. All you need to do is pick a
ride and go get it!
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Common misconceptions surround the motorcycling world. Whether they come from books, magazines
and TV, or from friends and family, some myths stubbornly persist in the minds of
the public. This list is by no means exhaustive, but we'll cover some of the big
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- Nice people don't ride
Moms ride, kids ride, grandparents ride, men ride, women ride. Motorcycles have
never been more accessible and acceptable for all walks of life.
- Women don't ride
The statistics are clear: Today, women make up over 12 percent of motorcycle owners,
and almost 25 percent of all active riders. Women riders participate in rallies
and compete with the men in some professional races. Many companies produce clothing
that's tailored to the needs of women motorcyclists. There are also numerous events
and clubs for women riders.
- I'm too old to ride
While college-age individuals represent a significant portion of riders, they are
actually outnumbered by those over the age of 50. It is quite common for riders
to decide they'll never stop riding, many of them continuing to ride into their
- I am too small/too big
Just like people, motorcycles come in all sizes. Fortunately, complete measurements
and information are available online for every make and model, so you can easily
find a bike that will fit you perfectly.
- Learning to ride is hard
Rider training, especially the Motorcycle Safety Foundation's Basic Rider Course,
is designed to ease you into riding. Instructors understand that new riders are
often intimidated, and offer constructive feedback in a highly supportive environment.
- Dealers are shady
Motorcycle dealers, from the smallest one-brand shops the largest multi-line superstores,
frequently train their staffs to listen to a customer's needs, then help them purchase
an appropriate bike.
- If I buy a small motorcycle, I'll outgrow it too quickly
Like new bikes, new riders often need a “break-in” period to reach their maximum
potential. So it's doubly important to choose a sensible motorcycle to fit the new
rider. The S.M.A.R.T. rides on this site offer a great deal of fun, not just for
brand-new riders, but also a few months or even years down the road, when experience
will let the rider capitalize on the bike's full potential. Remember, it's not just
the size of a motorcycle's engine, but also the ability of its rider, that ultimately
determines the capabilities, fun factor, and usefulness of a machine.
Aside from your motorcycle, what will be your biggest expense? It probably won't be tires,
gas or accessories. It'll be insurance, one of those things that you pay for but
will probably —hopefully— never use. And everybody, by law (in most
states), has to have it. But you probably have lots of questions: how do I get the
best deal? What kind of insurance do I need? Can't I just go without? Why does it
cost so much?
If you get sick, you see a doctor. If you need your bike fixed, you need a mechanic.
If you want to know about motorcycle insurance, you talk to an insurance agent.
Many motorcycle dealerships have a licensed insurance agent on the premises, but
you can find good insurance brokers just about anywhere. Ask around or read your
local motorcycling publications to find a trusted agent who knows about bikes. He
or she will be able to answer your questions, get the best rates, and most importantly,
match you up with exactly the insurance products you need, while saving you time
and money. Most agents work long hours—even weekends—for your convenience,
and are ready to fax or email all the documents, so you can start riding today!
There are many different types of insurance1
. Most types can be purchased
separately, or rolled into one master policy —just like your car insurance. Here
are tips and terms covering the policy types you should be familiar with before
you start shopping for a motorcycle:
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- Be sure to research your insurance premiums (cost of the policy) and shop around,
before you sign the contract to purchase a bike. Depending on what model of bike
you buy, your age, where you live, and a dozen other factors, your rates can vary
by thousands of dollars per year.
- Be flexible: insuring the hottest sportbike may not make sense financially right
now, but you may find a motorcycle that still has all the performance and capabilities
that you need with a much lower premium. Get riding on that bike, keep your driving
record clean, and as you rack up miles —and experience— your rates will improve,
and soon you'll be on the bike of your dreams.
- COMPREHENSIVE: Do you want your motorcycle replaced if it's stolen?
Then you may need Comprehensive insurance. This may replace or repair your ride
if it's stolen, vandalized or carried away by a tornado.
- COLLISION: Do you want it fixed or replaced if you go down? You
need Collision insurance. If you're the responsible party in an accident, the insurance
company will pay the repair bills, or, if the repair exceeds the bike's value, it
may buy you a replacement.
- LIABILITY: Do you just want to be in compliance with the law? Then
you only need Liability insurance. But how much coverage should you get? Most states
only require $15,000, but how much are you worth? Get enough coverage to protect
everything you own in case you become the defendant. Don't become someone else's
winning lottery ticket!
- UINSURED MOTORIST: Do you want to be protected from the irresponsibility
of others? Uninsured Motorist coverage will compensate you for medical bills, lost
wages and even the pain and suffering you may...suffer if an at-fault uninsured
motorist causes a crash.
- GAP: Did you put zero down on a loan and load up on accessories
and other add-ons? Gap insurance will cover the difference between the total loan
pay-off amount and the current market value of your motorcycle.
Questions to Ask your Dealer
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- May I speak to the service manager? (before going to the sales department) A good
service manager can almost always recommend a good salesperson.
- Are there currently any incentives or special programs available for this bike?
- Do you offer test rides?
- If considering a new bike: Will I be getting one out of the crate? Is it possible
for me to watch the pre-delivery service for my bike? If considering a pre-owned
bike: May I see a copy of the re-conditioning service order?
- Does the parts department stock the proper oil filter, brake, clutch and shift levers
for this model?
- Do you offer extended warranty contracts beyond the manufacturer's warranty? Can
I take a copy of the extended warranty terms with me so I can read all of the fine
print before I decide?
- Do you offer pre-paid maintenance contracts, so my regular scheduled maintenance
can be done at no additional cost?
- Does the store have training or track events I can attend? How about bike nights,
or new riders' groups?
- Do you offer financing and full-coverage insurance?